About | Contact | Terms | Privacy. Finish the lower ball joint, spindle, and attaching hardware. For decades, whenever someone wanted a stiffer suspension they installed a thicker torsion bar, typically using the B/RB or HEMI application, but were still left with stamped control arms and a front strut bar that pivots on rubber bushings. Take inventory of any missing, damaged, and worn part that must be replaced and add them to your “parts needed” list. It, too, is date coded and attached with a black phosphate bolt. Two pump styles were used on these cars: Federal or Saginaw. The factory used two swatches of color to identify which spring went on what car and on which side. And until the clip fits. Notice the castle nuts and cotter pin. is there a right and wrong way, I tightened that lower nut on the front of the lower A frame before I adjusted ride height. The basic function and design of the brake system did not change much over the years, but the appearance changed substantially among models and through the years 1966–1970. The finish of the upper control arm is natural on most applications with some painted semi-gloss black. Upon the vehicle being lowered over the powertrain and engine crossmember on the assembly line, the torsion bars were slid through their rearward perches on the mid-crossmember and fitted into the hexangular reliefs in the lower control arm pivot shafts. The wheel cylinders also should be rebuilt or replaced. Of course, many choose to replace original factory equipment with aftermarket components to improve drivability characteristics, and this is also a worthwhile endeavor. It is also brass and has a spring-loaded cap that vents the axle. SHARE THIS ARTICLE: Please feel free to share this article on Facebook, in Forums, or with any Clubs you participate in. The marks are different colors depending on your model of car but most of the time they are light brown. It also documents the clips on the caliper bolts that are almost always missing. To remove the sleeve from the shaft, notch it lengthwise on all four sides and slip it off. Both the block and bolt are left in natural finish. Completely strip and paint the K-member. They must always be replaced. If the master is original you want to save it even if you have to send it away for sleeving. a hint of which way they came out is look at all the grease, as you pull them out the back of the crossmember you can't avoid loading up grease on the other end. Then you can install the entire unit from the bottom, just as the factory did, minus all the great assembly line machinery. Remove all the internal cup seals, plungers, and springs, making sure to pay attention to the order and orientation of the parts as they come out. The first step in reassembly is the dust shield. On all drum brake cars with road or Rallye wheels, the outside edge was painted red with a brush, no matter the color of the car. By painting this rotor before it was turned it is ready to reassemble. Follow the directions on the solution bottle to create the original finish. All rubber hoses must be replaced. One of the fastest ways to remove a stubborn rod is to put the master cylinder in a bench vise and run a steel rod through the hole in the end of the brake rod. At least it is clean and complete. This twist is put into the bar during fabrication and is done to strengthen the bar. Either clean them with a wire wheel on a bench grinder or blast them until they are completely clean. (Love your Mopar's torsion-bar suspension setup? Welcome to our site! The entire front suspension (apart from the torsion bars) was assembled on the crossmember cradle prior to being attached to the vehicle during its initial assembly. You can buy a kit that includes tools to remove the bushings and a special socket to remove and install the ball joint if you plan to perform this process more times in the future. You can see the way the pin was bent by the factory and the style of the original boots. The driver’s side bars will have a 30 degree right hand twist. another grey area 12) now finger tight the torsion bar adjustment untill things … These boosters can be model and year specific so make sure you have the correct one for your car. After you have restored the entire front suspension assembly, the engine and transmission can also be attached. A passenger side bar will have a 30 degree left handed twist. You also have a choice in the type of replacement parts you use. You can rebuild the power steering pump from a kit found at most local parts stores; NAPA carries great replacement parts. You can tell because it is way too long and not bent the way the originals were. Many inspection marks can be found on these cars’ front suspensions. In reality, with some detailed guidelines, a good amount of mechanical experience, the help of a good machine shop, some designated garage time, and a reasonable amount of sweat, you can have a brand-new suspension that looks like it just came off the showroom floor. It has a grommet seal where it comes out of the interior to the underside of the car. https://p-s-t.com/c-1175853-suspens...ml#!year=1965||make=PLYMOUTH||model=SATELLITE, https://p-s-t.com/c-1145182-suspens...ml#!year=1965||make=PLYMOUTH||model=SATELLITE, https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/b-bodies-only-member-discount.105048/, https://p-s-t.com/c-1175853-suspension-coil-springs-leaf-springs-torsion-bars-torsion-bars.html#!year=1965||make=PLYMOUTH||model=SATELLITE, https://p-s-t.com/c-1145182-suspension-shocks-coil-over-kits.html#!year=1965||make=PLYMOUTH||model=SATELLITE, (You must log in or sign up to reply here.). You should have this unit completely rebuilt by a good shop. The driver’s side bars will have a 30 degree right hand twist. If you want to truly re-create the finish, treat the bare-metal arm with Rust Preventative Magic or paint with Seymour’s Stainless Steel paint. Your specific factory service manual is a must and it shows detailed diagrams of your original equipment. Most power brake booster and master cylinders are painted black and completely assembled. Because these parts are so important to you and your car’s safety, the entire brake system should be replaced or rebuilt. They are painted very heavy semi-gloss black so that the excess paint causes drip marks along the bar. Blast all of the parts except the pivot shaft. The truth is, you may not want to change it—unless you do. Be sure that your rear drums have a minimum amount of metal so you can turn them before spending the time it takes to blast and paint them. When everything is laid out with the wear pads and zinc liners in place, run the shaft through so that all parts are lined up. Some say they were brush painted black after assembly. The mechanical restoration of your front and rear suspension is crucial to a fully functional car that can be driven and enjoyed. You can drill out the rubber in several places and then press out the bushing. This bend can easily be straightened for installation. Pre-setting the bars in this manner improves the load carrying capacity in the pre-set direction. You can buy a rebuild kit at most parts stores. Use care not to damage the arm. The front suspension can be completely rebuilt without taking the entire front assembly and engine crossmember out of the car, but be prepared for a lot of time on your back or stooping low to the ground. Most 1966–1970 Plymouth and Dodge B-Bodies left the factory with manual drum brakes. or if GTX then 780 and 781. Save your originals if you can, but it is not the end of the world if you have to replace them because they are not visible. Clean, refinish, replate, and replace all of the components of the entire front suspension. So the original suspension on my recently acquired 1965 Satellite … You can observe this preset by laying the bars down on a flat surface and observing how the bar is twisted. The parts are different on each unit and their appearance makes these units easy to tell apart. Taking several pictures to document what you find helps you restore your car to its factory-original condition. This is a fine detail that many people miss. But if your car has been sitting a very long time in an uncovered state it is going to take more than 30 minutes and a set of new brake shoes to get your brakes in perfect operating condition and show-quality appearance. The rear two brake cables slide in a heavy-duty spiral reinforced case. All these pieces have been blasted and turned, and a new lower ball joint replaces the worn-out original. Install the lower strut rod and tighten the front nut. Even a stock car equipped with a 4-barrel 383 B block can easily break the 100-mph mark, and the last thing you want is a loose and questionable suspension. Some say they were dipped fully assembled but that hasn’t been confirmed. After having the original calipers rebuilt, the bolts should be replated. As you disassemble your originals you will probably find that they have been replaced. Make sure the leaves have an extra hole in the front and one in back. These are the upper control arm bushings after removal with a cold chisel and a cut-off wheel. Cars with steel wheels did not receive this paint. The original spindles were in good enough condition to save. Wait to install these until after everything is under load and tested just in case it must come apart. Even though a lot of pad is left on these shoes they must be replaced with new pads. Lubricate the front eye bushing and press it in. The upper A-arm mounted to perches on the upper frame rail while the lower control arms connected to the front crossmember (or K-member) through a pivot shaft. You will know if your particular springs were natural or painted black by looking under the hangers. Then add all the components to complete the front suspension. They were really fast, but often if you had to shut ’er down in a hurry the ditch was a quick option when the drums just couldn’t stop the beast. You can upgrade the feel and response to a quicker and tighter response. But the process is not that difficult. Many people use a fork when they replace the ball joint boots; however, anytime you need to separate the new suspension you cannot use the fork without tearing a boot or marring the new parts. The routing of the emergency brake cables can be very different depending on the year and model of your vehicle, but a single cable always attaches to the emergency brake assembly. Check the bore for pitting and ridges. You can powdercoat it or paint it with enamel. The self-locking nut is correct, as is the bushing and washer; missing is a retainer pin.

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